Magnolia
We've been in a Hollywood kinda mood lately. New Hollywood, we suppose, all Star Shoes, Amoeba, Arclight and Hungry Cat. But we're always in an old Hollywood kind of mood. And Magnolia fills both bills quite well.It's got that new minimalist thing going on, but with old school flare -- moldings, grey, cream and sepia, with sparkling crystal fixtures and fisheye mirrors (if in fact, such a thing exists.) All candle-lit.
The food is sound. We started out with tender calamari, not the rote, rubbery dish many places offer, but one carefully spiced and delicious. Afterward, there was a generally sampling of main courses, including a savoury pasta dish, steak sandwich with fries, crispy chicken and mashed potatoes and seared ahi tuna with wasabi mashed potatoes. All were delightful, taking little for granted in terms of flavor. Dessert was slightly less so, especially the chocolate mousse which was a bit bland.
All in all, however, sitting in the large booths spangled with candlelight shining through wine glasses, it was easy to see how you'd want to come back.
Magnolia 6266 1/2 Sunset Boulevard at Argyle, Los Angeles, CA
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